South Devon In unusually settled conditions

Rested after the Plymouth Rally, we departed Cawsands with a fresh wind on our quarter, which had largely given up by lunch time, off Salcombe. The tedious motor in gloriously fine weather was enhanced by listening to Boris's resignation on the wireless through our new cockpit speakers on longwave!  Flat calm at Start meant further motoring to the Dart. 

It was clear that we were in for a week or more of very calm weather and we abandoned our plans to cross Lyme Bay and visit grandson,  Alfie and his parents in Poole.  So we didn't even try to find a berth in Dartmouth or Kingswear, which were heaving but continued up to Dittisham, where there were several moorings available.  We ended up near "Rocket" another Heard 28 with an even taller mast, belonging, we believe to the broadcaster David Dimbleby. 

 

 

After a run ashore to the Red Lion Inn for stores and a beer, the next day we explored the river in the dinghy. We tied up at Totnes before high tide and had several hours ashore in lovely weather, 

 

enjoying lunch at the Steam Packet Inn and walking through the town to the castle, form where a splendid view is to be had.

    

Returning down wind and tide we met Mark T and "Flirt", who had visited the Maltsters Arms instead. At the same time, Gil and Caroline H, who had just returned to their nearby mooring after a cruise in "Mischief" appeared.  We all repaired to their lovely garden overlooking the river for some drinks.  The Sunday was another calm hot sunny day, so we dinghied over to the NT Greenway House, one of Agatha Christies many houses in the area.  We had a grand leisurely walk around the gardens and visited the house, where murals form the WW2 requisition, are still preserved.

After 3 pleasant days "on holiday" we set off down river, passing the Classic Channel fleets preparing to race in what turned out to be decent wind for them and sailed on towards Salcombe.  

                            

We went inside the skerries and allowed the tide to swing us close to Start Point.  It was so settled that we had a prolonged lunch stop at anchor just inside Prawle Point, at Elender Cove, before anchoring for the night just inside Salcombe harbour, at Mill Bay.

The following day we gently sailed around Bolt Head and Bolt tail to Hope Cove.  A busy anchorage with people, zooming around near silently, on electric surfboards.  One particular one returned regularly to his gin palace anchored not far away, presumably to recharge the batteries.  Unfortunately to do so, he had a noisy generator running continuously all day until dusk.  Nevertheless we enjoyed a couple of walks ashore.  Not a place to revictual, though. Even the recycling facilities were for "residents" only!

                                

It remained abnormally settled so we motored gently to the mouth of the Erme, where we anchored, initially alone, and went ashore for a cliff walk towards the Yealm, before a peaceful night in a normally untenable anchorage.

                               

 

The following day we returned for a night at Cawsands, where we "discovered" a well stocked CoOp up a side street and enjoyed a pint and impromptu supper at the Halfway House Inn, as the weather had turned slightly damp and decidedly cold.

                            

From there it was pleasant sail back to the Helford the next day, anchoring at the entrance for the night and then motoring back to the mooring as the weather finally broke.

Helford and Plymouth Rallies June 2023

 Animal illness prevented us returning to Cornwall for Falmouth Classics,  Instead Diana L. had crewed admirably on "Picotee", a 70 plus year old wooden cutter, normally with a centre plate, just restored by Tim and launched at Gweek the week before.  They had a brisk return, a day early, because of adverse winds, so missed the relatively boisterous parade of sail.

By Sunday the dog had returned from Bristol and David was able to return aboard "Susan J" and join in the Helford Rally BBQ, on the Monday.  

 

The Tuesday dawned cloudless and very hot, with a gentle breeze for the planned "raid" to Gweek.  Diana and her friend, Julia, expertly sailed "Flat Sea", our 10' Anarth Lugger, up to Gweek, while David took various passengers in the rubber dinghy, with outboard.  We enjoyed a quick look around the boatyard and some coffee, and acquired pasties for lunch.  Two up in the Anarth proved too much to win the rowing race from Tremayne Quay to Groyne Point, on the return tide.  A further impromptu picnic at Penbilly beach was enjoyed in the evening.

   

The race took place on Wednesday and, once the start had been located, we 

 

enjoyed just enough wind.  With Diana helming and only one crew, we completed the course in a timely fashion, conceding to "Roxanne" but only just!

   

The Helford River SC was our venue for the prize giving.  This was Don Garman's last Helford Rally, as he was to be stepping down from his role as Cornwall representative.  Unfortunately, he was unable to attend, as he and several others had, or were contracting, Covid. Despite this, the rest of us enjoyed an excellent dinner and eight of us repaired aboard  "Arianna", where a fine selection of rums were sampled into the early hours.

The following day, after some fettling aboard, David drove back to Somerset, to review the new dog's progress..  Molly was much better for being at home but David developed Covid very suddenly in the early hours.  For the first and, hopefully, only time, it was almost certainly the Omicrom variant and he was fully recovered by the following weekend, ready to return, with Julie, to "Susan J", in preparation for the Plymouth Rally on Monday.

The weather remained kind and, after a pleasant sail in company with " Picottee", we anchored in Cawsands not far from "Passager" a 35' gaff cutter belonging to Janet and Mike G.  We had a pint a shore and a good night's sleep.

 

As always we came alongside at QAB marina, with plenty of helping with lines throughout the afternoon.  By tea time, various refreshments, including Rawlins cider were being enjoyed on the pontoon. Penny Jolly had produced a lovely birthday cake and sparkling wine as it turned out she was a much older gaffer than many of us!

Fiona arrived by train, just in time for a drink and to introduce us to Phillipe, from Bourg St Maurice, for the first time.  Phillipe's English, was excellent and he seemed to enjoy the somewhat unusual setting for a "meet the parents", as much as we did! 

                           

(At the time of writing, in January, they have returned to the Alps, Fiona with her cat and a visa for the whole of 2023, they are just waiting for some snow!)

We repaired to Chandlers, now called the Waypoint, Bistro for an enjoyable meal and good company, before a good night's sleep aboard.

The day of the race was another glorious one.  Phillipe a very experienced skier, uphill as well as down, had sailed a little before and proved to be a competent helm.  We managed a respectable third place on correction and retained the Tyrone Trophy. 

The main meal at The Stable on the Barbican was preceded by the usual prize giving, including the Victory Block, which contains a piece of her copper sheathing, for "Susan J" having travelled the furthest to attend, 400 yards further than "Picottee"!

 

Wednesday's activities didn't happen, several boats needed to catch tides and it remained very hot and windless.  As treasurer, we had to wait to settle the bills and to help Tim with "Picottee's engine.  A replacement battery was averted, once the strange multiple 12 V switching was identified and connections improved!  By the afternoon we  decided to forego our third night and sail off to Cawsands, where it would be cooler and ready to start our leisurely cruise along the south coast.

Our first visit to Brixham Heritage Regatta

Following our voyage to Wales and after two days ashore, including a visit to the Merlin cinema in Falmouth to see the new Downton Abbey film, we are once more aboard, bound down wind for Cawsands, a passage stop before rounding the south Hams for the Brixham Heritage Regatta.  This is an annual event at the end of May bank holiday, which we had always hoped to attend.  This year the bank holiday was shifted for Her Majesty's Jubilee, so that our politicians could ensure that the teachers missed the extra time off, despite their efforts for Covid.  However, this allowed us to attend  for the first time.  Penny Jolly organises the event and a smaller one in September, harnessing all the incredible good will of the people of Brixham, not just the excellent Yacht Club.

   

                Poled out from Helford                                                          Anchored at Cawsands

One reef in the mainsail and poled out staysail achieved 4 to 6 knots as the SW wind reached F6 as forecast. We kept the jib furled so avoided the inevitable falling off of turns on the Wickham Martin and laying on the bowsprit to recover it all! This worked well with a starboard gybe 10 degrees off course, followed by a port gybe 10 degrees less than the course and we rounded Penlee point to a flat calm and gentle refracted swell.

Following a slightly vinegary Valpolocelli, opened in Lawrenny, on the other side of the Bristol Channel, Julie cooked a superb meal eaten to the hiss of the Taylor stove! 

In sunnier weather, we broad reached past Salcombe, only to find a flat calm after Start Point. 

 

We motored on to Brixham and tied up on the town pontoon, amongst large and small traditional vessels and a fair number of junks.

 

       Mike Forward shaking out a reef on  "Arriana"         Berry head - where is the breakwater!

    "Capraia" arrives at the pontoon                          The assembled fleet

After a shower, we had a few beers at the very hospitable Brixham YC, enjoying the incomparable view over the harbour breakwater and towards Golden Cap in Dorset, with large gas carrying ships miraged, spectacularly, above the sea.

The Saturday was the hottest day of the year, so far and shorts were worn. Julie walked to Torquay, to complete that section of the SW path, from Salcombe.  Soon after she left, clouds of black smoke were visible above Torquay.  A large superyacht, that had taken on 8,000 litres of diesel, in Brixham, the day before had burnt to the water line, having, fortunately, burnt through her mooring lines and drifted out of the Torquay marina area.  Most of the sea front was closed, forcing Julie to walk inland to catch a bus back to Brixham, where David had enjoyed a pleasant day drinking tea, washing up, repeat and  doing a few odd jobs.  She found most of the Gaffer contingent in "Arriana"'s cockpit with beers at 16:00!

  

 

Following a briefing aboard "Prospect",  we were ferried to the Brixham YC and given a wonderful fish pie supper, before wandering back around the harbour to our boats.

                                                                        Photo Mike Garlic

Sunday dawned slightly grey, with the promise of a little wind later.  Shorts were stowed for another few weeks and we joined the throng in the shelter of the breakwater hoisting all sail.  We sailed as best we could for the parade and eventually started the race, while the skipper had to answer a call of nature.  Ralph, who had sailed his venerable, gunter rigged, twin bilge keel, Westerly22 from Torquay, had joined us for the race and regaled us with tales and anecdotes of yore.  His boat, "Charlie Bravo" was identical to the boat I had crewed on, from Dartmouth to Audierne, while still at school. Eventually, "Susan J" was her usual third in class behind "Capraia" and "Miscief". 

                                                                                                           Ralph Bell aboard "Susan J"

 

                                                                                                            Several junk rigged classics

                                "Minx"                                                                           "Provident"

Mike Garlick in "Mischief" took some lovely photographs of Susan J under way.

Photo Mike Garlic

 

                                                                                  "Susan J"                                                Photo Mike Garlic

The racing was very pleasant and a real privilege to be able to sail amongst a variety of boats from the junk rigged cruisers, the bermudan sloop, "Falandia", restored and recently sailed around Britain by 14 year old Katie and her parents, larger yawl "Amyrillis"; to the two Brixham trawlers - "Vigilance", still sadly, as I write, awaiting full coding and "Prospect", already restored, both a lovely sight close to.  All followed by a curry supper at the YC, prizes and more beer.  

 

             "Falandia" single handed Katie McCabe                                      "Provident"

"Susan J" had to be back on her mooring, at Helford Passage, before a family camping trip in Dorset, so it was decided to do one long passage on the Monday, setting off in crystal clear blue sky and fair weather cumulus, while leaving "Mischief" to lunch en route and "Capraia" motoring off into the "sunset".  By the time we had rounded Start Point, the clouds had gathered, the wind was rising and a squall, at least, looked likely.  By the time the reef was in, the wind had dropped but with evening approaching, we left it in, had a pasta supper and plodded ever westwards into the night, which was spent dodging unpredictable trawlers, so brightly lit you couldn't see their lateral lights!  By dawn, Eddystone Light was well astern and we continued to our mooring, for a late breakfast on Tuesday, before driving home.

 

 

 

So, in May, apart from two days ashore, we had been aboard for well over three weeks and covered approximately 840 Miles with four nights spent under way.  Time for a break at home, before Falmouth Classics!