A post Covid cruise to Guernsey

By August, 2021, our daughter Fiona felt it safe enough to join us for ten days and we decided to pick her up from Dartmouth for a possible trip to the Channel Islands.   A rapid downwind sail to Salcombe, south of the Eddystone light, involved an early start. 

 

Once there, we were put on a mooring well above the Bag, where we were joined by Patrick in “Capraia”.  And enjoyed a meal aboard.  Despite being singlehanded, when “Capraia”’s stainless steel tiller shaft sheared, he managed to stay in control until towed to Salcombe and was now awaiting a tiller repair or replacement.  

The repaired tiller arrived in time for "Capraia" to depart for Helford the following day, while we planned to walk to the Sharpitor museum, postponed from 2018, due to engine fuel failure on arrival, in the midst of local dinghy races! The house and museum are long closed but the NT gardens are delightful.  We then walked out to Bolt Head and back and looked down onto the speedboat "contrails" in Starhole Bay.  

 

Avoiding the crowds ashore, we ate aboard again, before refuelling on our way down river and a pleasant, if rather grey, sail around to Dartmouth.  An evening was spent in the Dartmouth Sailing Club, waiting for Fiona to arrive and our food!  A more relaxing day ashore in the rain and early supper aboard, was followed by a rather messy departure from the pontoon with the increasing ebb behind us in worsening visibility.

The imminent north easterlies, which were to continue throughout our trip, precluded Alderney and left just St Peters Port as our port of Covid clearance.  We were able to see enough in the dusk and mist to clear the mouth of the Dart. 

           Leaving Dartmouth                       Dolphin mid channel (Fiona Patuck)

 The wind was sufficient for damp motor sailing and, after numerous dolphins and phosphorescence, dawn saw the wind pick up and we arrived off the NE coast around lunchtime.     

Visualising our first mark, Platte Fougere, just before a prolonged heavy rain shower obscured the Little Russell completely, not ideal on our first passage to the Channel Islands! Fortunately I had earlier supplemented a position at each turning point, to the waypoints left over from the Shaw’s stewardship and we had no option but to sail from waymark to waymark – at least we had the tides right!  We arrived off the harbour as the rain stopped and took down the sails before motoring to the pontoons.  We were put on a convenient walk ashore pontoon that led to a big marquee, where we were Covid screened, using the Guernsey app, which, with a little help, worked well.  We had to purchase a kit of lateral flow tests for each of us and do them every second day but there was no means to advise the local authorities of the results!  Any way we were now free to explore the island and the rest of the Bailiwick.

 

 What we would have seen, taken from Herm!     Safe in St Peter's Port

We had a pleasant Sunday ashore, visiting the Guernsey Museum and listening to a concert in Cande Gardens, completed our laundry and stocked up at the convenient M&S Food Hall, there being, disappointingly few, if any, local food outlets, open or closed. 

Rested and victualled, we left for the relatively short passage to Sark, seeing the channel we had come through much more clearly.  We anchored at Grande Greve under a massive cliff leading up to La Coupe to Little Sark.  A little rolly but otherwise peaceful, we spent the next day exploring Sark on foot, swimming and climbing a lot of stairs! 

 

    Grand Greve                                          Sunset le Grand Greve Sark           

                                                         Fiona at helm returning to Guernsey

We then moved back to Guernsey, in the hope that the bays to the south were more sheltered from the NE wind and swell.  While this was the case and we had the anchorage at Petit Port, in Moulin Huet Bay, largely to ourselves after the day trippers had gone, it was still quite rolly, but swimming ashore and access, via more stairs, enabled us to spend several days exploring.

    

      Under Jerbourg Pt Guernsey                            More steps!   

                                                                                             Petit Port Guernsey                               

We then had a short sail to Herm and anchored south of Rosiere Steps for one night, exploring the whole Island on foot, before enjoying breakfast at the White House Hotel and sailing back to St Peter Port, for more laundry, victualling and a Sunday bus journey around the whole Island on our last day.

  

       Off Rosiere steps Herm                         Sunset from Herm    

Bank holiday Monday, had us all prepared to cross back but it was grey with a stronger wind but fair for Plymouth.  Leaving at about 1 pm we cleared over the sill and, as we rounded St Martin’s light at the SE corner of Guernsey, the sun came out and a very pleasant broad reach took us along the south coast and past Les Hanois light house, off the SW tip.  From there we hardened up to a close reach and took our departure from Guernsey and into the sunset.

   David at helm reaching south of Guernsey        

“Susan J”, carried on with two reefs and no jib, at 4 knots and, well before dawn, we had sighted Prawle Point and the Eddystone.  By 08:30 we were tucked up in the Mayflower, ready for an end of cruise breakfast at Jolly Jack’s, before Fiona caught the train back to Bristol and the skipper did some routine maintenance, while Julie visited her ancestors at Forde Park.

                    A happy crew!                                  Breakfast at Jolley Jacks

Cruise to Plymouth and anchor anxiety lessons learnt!

 June has been a busy month, with every opportunity taken to reinvigorate the sailing senses after such a long and dreary, lockdown, winter.

With the next gaffer event just a few days ago.  We were back aboard and re victualed, before enjoying a meal aboard "Minx", with Paul and Penny Jolley. 

The following morning, "Susan J" departed towards Fowey, followed by "Minx", with "Annabelle" and "Cariad " leaving soon after from Falmouth.  A forecast brisk NW breeze, wasn't as strong as forecast and the one reef was shaken out within an hour. Passing close under the Dodman, "Susan J" reached Fowey on one tack for the second time in a fortnight.

A 09:00 start meant we were followed in to the harbour by a cloud of sails, mainly white but "Minx" s tan amongst them. 

All four crews, were therefore able to meet at 18:00, for supper at the King of Prussia, ashore. Apparently under new management an unusual menu and flowing Tribute was enjoyed on two separate tables of four to meet the Covid rules.

Some decided to spend a day in Fowey, while "Susan J" cast off at 09:00 despite the light easterly forecast, this seemed preferable to a NE 6+ and "yellow" rain. The engine could rest 6 miles from Rame Head and a couple of tacks saw us passing close inshore and once borne away sailed splendidly up the Sound, around Drake's Island and in to the Hamoaze. 

There are always several sinister RIB, police launches etc around the dockyards. On this occasion one such vessel came up to our port quarter.  We hauled the mainsail in to slow down wondering what we had done wrong, 6.8 knots SOG seemed fairly conservative in the Sound!  We were delighted when they said they had just come along side to say what a lovely sight we had been, following us into the Sound. They then left us to thread our way through all three Torpoint ferries and on to the mouth of the river Lynher. 

We had arrived rather too soon to take the tide to Dandy Hole but another inflatable appeared on our port quarter bearing Rob Brown. Still running at 3-knots he tied on and spent 20 minutes discussing the forthcoming event, which Rob has organised. We drifted under Brunells bridge and turned into the ferocious mid tide.  Dowsed the sail and ferry glided between the trots to up tide of "Heron", where hopped back into his flubber, until Monday at QAB.

Once in the Lynher, with a reducing tide under us we cautiously motored, following Cunliffe's advice, loosing and recovering the paper chart in the process!

We identified the boudaries of Dandy Hole and dropped our anchor and, gradually 35 M of chain, digging as we went, or so we thought, after two attempts despite needing to be at St. Germans Quay at 1900. 

We were met by Julie's school friend, Elizabeth, who, delightfully, insisted on driving us up to her cottage in the village and served us fresh bbq'd steak, chicken etc etc. We set off back a couple of hours after high tide with a gorgeous red sky highlighting the railway viaduct and Sailing Club Quay.

 On our return aboard, "Susan J" seemed tucked closer under the wooded cliff.  Julie insisted on starting the instruments.  We were going to dry out! A long discussion about length of chain ensued. Shortening to 25 meters moved us back into the middle of the hole but she was still swing around in the ebb. 

Further grating caused several trips above but by 0230, sorrounded by mud banks we remained well afloat. Despite fatigue, the menu of our venerable C120 plotter revealed an anchor alarm, with this deployed we rested until mid tide and dawn. It was clear from the very detailed track of our movements that we had dragged into the upstream, upwind end of the "hole". 

As the tide turned so did the rode and once established, the flood had caused further dragging and the chart plotter confirmed this.  Because, the now 20 knot wind and tide were in unison we were merely dragging along the "hole" so had plenty of water under us.  Letting out another 10 meters held us, at least until the tide turned. 

By 0800 we had had enough, the tide was slacker but the wind was rising and the forecast worse. With the help of the engine we recovered the chain for the sixth time, on this occasion bringing the anchor above the surface. In addition to the statutory clump of seaweed, there was a small pierced oyster shell a good cm up the tip of the CQR. 

Lessons learnt: you really do need, at least, three times your depth in chain. 

Scope, as illustrated on the close up chart plotter, makes a huge difference. 

Setting the rudder to starboard to stop the chain fouling the inner bobstay, caused Susan J to be broadside in the strongest part of the tide and increases the dragging force. Leave rudder centred to minimise resistance, in strong streams. 

When raising chain, to reset, raise it another half meter, so the anchor is above the surface and can be inspected. On the sixth occasion the cause of our sleepless night became blatantly obvious!

Our ancient chart plotter tracked our dragging and with the 0.01 M alarm was reassuringly effective. The downside is the 2.5 Amp battery drain. Acceptable in these circumstances and probably less with newer electronics. 

The upside of our earlier departure was a hammerhead at the Mayflower and eggs for brunch just before the onset of four hours of "yellow" rain. 

48 hours to Fowey and back!

 With NNW then NNE up to F6 and bright sunshine, conditions were perfect for a sail to Fowey and back.

   

With one reef and for most of the time half the staysail, while towing the dinghy, "Susan J" was fine reaching at 6 + knots SOG and 7-8 through the water.  We were on a "Fowey" mooring by 15:00 and ashore, seeking sustenance, by 18:00. 

  

We settled on the Lugger Inn on the Fowey side and enjoyed excellent pub grub, cheerfully served with the ubiquitous St. Austell ales.

 

 

A peaceful night despite the strong northerly in the rigging.  We were underway by 10:00 and on our mooring y 14:00.  This. despite two reefs in the main, as we were on a broad reach but full foresails for most of the way.  

There seems no doubt that, with less weight aloft and efficient topping lifts, "Susan J" is much handier, rolls less and is increasingly fast.  Of course, the flat sea made a huge difference.

 

Ashore again, we spent an evening with neighbours, using the flat, before driving home in the gathering gloom portended by the parhelion seen earlier. This led to a few wet, cool, dull days to catch up with paperwork and family in Somerset! 

The Helford Rally

 A pleasant broad reach across Falmouth Bay and back to our mooring and a run a shore to shower etc.. "Bonita" came and rafted alongside after lunch and a swim off Trebah beach.  

   

Deirdre had joined Justin and Mike and as "Susan J " had missed out on the shore side events, due to Covid restrictions and Deidre was only aboard for two days, we had a pint outside the Ferry Boat inn and all ate down below on "Susan J" .  With a "pot luck" selection of ingredients from both vessels, Julie rustled up a sausage and pasta dish, followed by cheese and biscuits and more malt.  As it turned out, the weather became cold and cloudy, so we might have fared better than at the BBQ!  None of the hostelries were serving indoors, again  because of staff Covid cases. 

   

Both crews spent the morning ashore.  Tying up at the pontoons near the ferry slip and walking around to the "Green Hut Beach" (Bosnan) and back via the village store.

With a 13:30 start, we were positioned fairly well and crossed with out loss of paint into a steady but light easterly, so no swell.  We tacked too far out to the first mark but in hindsight saved two tacks and considerable time.  For the final lap, Julie took the helm and we started catching up, overtaking the only other heard 28, "Cappria", who had not hoisted her topsail. We followed "Mary Ritchie" across the line.

 

Julie and I went ashore for a walk but gave up on a pint because of the long line waiting to order at the Ferry Boat.  A peaceful meal in the cockpit was just finished, as our outboard was heard , returning "Bonita"'s crew from the Portnavas Yacht Club dinner and prize giving.  Apparently, "Susan J" was second in class.  The prizes were duly christened with the remains of the whiskey, until after dark! 

 

Wednesday saw an early departure of Mike and Justin, to sail "Bonita"all the way back to the Swale, while Deidre stayed aboard before being driven to the station at Falmouth and return to London.  After a belated breakfast, we returned to the flat for Julie to try out her paddle board given to her by the girls at Christmas and the skipper to sleep and catch up on this blog!

Falmouth Classics and Parade of Sail 2021

Arrived at Helford Passage to grey mizzle, took stores aboard "Susan J" in the ferry returning to dry out at the flat.  "Bonita" (bonitayawl.blogspot.com) had spent the afternoon at Tremayne Quay and Alan, Justin and Mike joined us for a pint at the Ferry Boat, followed by a chile, ingredients sourced at Mawnan Stores and prepared by Julie, in the flat.

A steady WSW wind took both vessels to  their berths at Falmouth Haven in time to dress overall and revise the racing instructions under the watchful eye of thousands of police billeted in a Baltic ferry at the port.  Border Police were out in Force touring the pontoon berths in sinister black jet skis and paddleboards.  All in aid of G7 but any protests were good natured, fairly relevant and hardly justified the effort.  Burglars and would be immigrants up the line will have had a trouble free weekend!

   

Meanwhile, endless bottles of locally brewed beer and Choake's pasties were delivered to the various rafts of gaffers.  Bulging pockets for Friday's lunch were donated to "Minx", when she turned up late!

The weather remained dull but with sufficient wind for both races on Friday.  "Susan J" panicked at the afternoon start, being forced from behind to, possibly, cross, the, as yet ascertained, line too soon.  Turning around in panic, she was met by half a dozen bowsprits, between which she managed to retreat, with no loss of paint, to lick her metaphoric wounds and a pleasant cruise to Turnaware ensued.  The endless post mortem by the skipper has concluded that Sarah Lightfoot, as third crew participant, was the sorely missed element!

Early fish and chips at the Harbour Lights, saved a long wait later and facilitated the broaching of a malt.

Saturday, was an all together better day, with more wind than forecast and bright sunshine.  With the arrival of Tim, Mike lent us Alan, an experienced "young" gaffer if there ever was one, from "Bonita".  A much more relaxed race ensued, with some catching up after another poor but at least safe and legal start. All washed down with beer and cake.

  

With Covid-19 outbreaks aboard the police ferry, the RCYC and Harbour Lights confirmed, the sit down meal at the Royal Cornwall Yacht Club was cancelled.  Clearly eating ashore was becoming unlikely and hazardous, so most crews rustled up supper from stores below and had socially distanced, "pot luck" suppers on their coach roofs, entertained by a great jazz band.  As the, now northerly, wind persisted, the contrast of temperature for our sunburnt skin drove us all below, in our case, to "Cappria" a relatively new and practically turned out Heard 28, who we last met on Bar beach at Helford and later at Coverack a few years ago.  Patrick and Rose were very hospitable and, joined by Mike, we put the Old Gaffers to rights!

 

The eventual outcome for "Susan J" was 9th overall out of a field of 16 in "K" class, for the series of three races, of which only two were finished.

Sunday dawned bright hot and almost wind less.  Clear blue skies and by 10 am a gentle breeze to push us around the Carrick Road s course at the obligatory 4 knots.  Lots of photo opportunities as we sailed past the VIP's aboard the "Party Boat" normally and more prosaically taking a handful of tourists up the Helford twice a day!

   

 

We returned, briefly to the Haven to take on water, chat to a few crews we had missed and leave them sorting "Annabelle's overheating problem. A night at anchor up at Turnaware Point was blissfully peaceful and conducive to a lie in and late start for Helford Passage and the Helford Rally.

All in all and despite on going Covid-19 restrictions it had been a welcome return to near normal behaviour after a stressful 15 months.  All credit to the organisers for having the courage to go ahead! 

First local cruise Turnaware and Porthallow

With a few days between visits to our first grandson, Alfie, in Poole we had a few days to aboard "Susan J".

  

A strengthening easterly with associated rolling at the mooring prompted a retreat to the more sheltered Carrick Roads. 

While tossing up and down in the Helford entrance, hoisting the mainsail, David noticed that the new bolt holding the goose neck to the boom had lost it's nut and washer and was nearly out.  Hammered back in place, the sail was dowsed and a tedious motor across a choppy Falmouth Bay ensued, amply demonstrating the benefit of a hard sheeted main sail when motoring, even straight into the wind!

Once inside the headlands, we broad reached all the way up the channel to Turnaware point reaching 7 knots, at times, under staysail alone - the delight of smooth water!

A couple of nights anchored, peacefully at Turnaware Point, saw the repaired auto bilge pump reinstalled and wired, the small fuse box for "always on" circuits fitted and various other early season jobs done.  The bolt securing the boom to the goose neck, with two penny washers was clearly to short for the "Nylock" nut to be effective. With one less washer and blue "Locktite", the problem was solved , at least until longer bolts have been ordered.

Using the dinghy and outboard we motored to the King Harry jetty from where we could access Trelisick National Trust gardens for a sultry walk and a cup of tea and cake. 

   

Having checked on the moored ships, just the Limassol registered P&O ferry remaining laid up, we returned to Turnaware to take a few photo's of "Susan J" in her new rigging!

The Thursday was more clement with a return of SW breezes. We spent the day short tacking down the Roads and across the bay, in preparation for the Falmouth Classics and Helford rally.  This gave us an opportunity to get used to the modified backstays and develop a rhythm for tacking with just the two of us.  It was so calm and clear that we anchored off Porthallow for the night.  A run ashore revealed that the Five Pilchards has changed hands but has a reasonable pint outdoors.  There were no tables, so after a steep walk, from where we could see well beyond Fowey we repaired aboard for another of Julie's excellent dinners and a drop of malt!

   "Bonita" had been spotted on AIS off Rame Head and in Fowey but by Thursday evening appeared to be be headed around the Lizard.  In fact they were alongside in Falmouth, after a late arrival, to release Justin to the railway, having made a single passage from the Swale to Fowey, to take advantage of the now defunct easterlies.

We had started the day by swinging the electric compass and adjusting the heading sensor reading, using the chart plotter.  We then had a splendid run across to Falmouth under full sail, with Julie now much happier keeping her right before the wind.  By early afternoon we had tied alongside "Bonita" aat Falmouth Haven nd used the opportunity to top off fuel and water as well as enjoying a sit down meal at The Grapes, a splendid breakfast at Fuel on Saturday morning and catching up with Mike Beckett, who now had to wait for crew on Sunday before practicing further for the races.

With increasing drizzle becoming heavy rain, we returned briskly back to our mooring and Somerset for Dentist and car appointments on Monday.

Battery charging - rather technical!

 Following our initial day sails, I have now spent several days aboard to implement the completion of winter projects put off during the first Covid-19 lockdown.  The second lockdown has given  the opportunity to study the internet in depth to resolve our 12 V power requirements and charging.

   Not all electrics, also an opportunity to tidy up the mainsail and admire the new lazy jacks, fitting a temporary third one.

The Sunware 36 watt panel had clearly, with visible damage, stopped working last season, if not in 2019 but careful deployment of the one -both-two switch ensured that both sets of batteries were charged at the end of a day, sufficiently to restart the engine, the following day.  With her new Beta 30 engine she has a standard 75 amp, internally regulated, alternator with multi-v belt drive. It appears that this replenishes the few amps drawn in from the start battery with in minutes, if not seconds.  So an early switch to 2, while helpful, has still meant that there is not, then, a three staged charging of the, often, 25% depleted house batteries.

It became clear that, rather than a simple charge relay, as recommended by a local marine electrician in 2018, who never had time to start the job,  a DC to DC charger would be a better option.  It would achieve a multi stage charge for any specific battery chemistry, including the sealed lead AGM's replaced in 2017, or even Lithium Ion if ever affordable.  Given that the FLA starting battery and alternator is similar to a set up in a car and is almost always 100% charged, a greater excess from the alternator could be drawn by the DC-DC charger and used to power the variable charging needs of the AGM house batteries more rapidly.  Alternator over heating would be unlikely except for Lithium batteries. 

 

By moving the 1100 watt 250v ac inverter, that came with the boat, by one inch, there was room to mount the Victron device on the bulkhead between the two lockers under the quarter berth, leaving room for three busbars, two +ve for each battery and one -ve for both.  The existing Stirling mains battery charger, which already uses a three stage algorithm, is retained but the isolation switch for the inverter was replaced and re sited.  The opportunity was taken to install a fuse for each battery in the battery compartment to replace the single fuse for the house batteries, while retaining the separate fuse to the inverter. The starting battery was never fused to the mains charger!  

Another delayed project was to try and reduce the apparent 0.3v drop at the DC panel. Replacing the untinned 4mm wire to the panel with 16 mm2 tinned wire from a 30 amp trip near to the battery and accessible under the companion way step. The "one-both two" battery switch is retained but can be left permanently on "one", the starting battery as it is always isolated unless the DC-DC charger detects the engine is running and more than 13 V.  There is still the facility to start the engine on the house batteries if the start battery fails or needs a boost.  Experience in our first season, demonstrated the inadvisability of combining AGM with FLA batteries, so "both" has not been used for a while.

The damaged Sunware solar panel had already been removed, the deck made good and painted by Julie.  A near similar sized, semiflexible, panel from the same manufacture but capable of 60 watts output, was refitted with industrial velcro tape under most of it's area, to assist easier replacement in future.  This has stayed in place so far and may introduce some cooling.  The old Fox 100 PWM solar charge controller was replaced with a Victron MPPT controller and isolating switch.  All now connected to the new bus under the chart table with a fuse. 

Early indications suggest that after a few days of sunshine at this time of year the house batteries are fully charged on float, anyway, if not they receive more absorption charge while under engine, although many hours would still be required to fully charge.  The 250 V AC shore power and outlets remain and may be used kore, via the inverter, for charging power tools etc.

A four fuse block is now attached to the +ve of the house bank with blade fuses for "always on", bilge pump, switch, CO/LPG alarm and constant 12v for the fm wireless. 

The engine starting wires have been left intact retaining "one-both-two" for emergencies. The only thing remaining is the connection between the original, much simplified -ve bus bar in the battery compartment and the engine block. Like the starter connecting cables they are untinned and need reviewing.  The actual connections to the starter are inaccessible without lifting the engine, which involves removing the heat exchanger, probably above my pay grade!