Tuesday, 23 July 2019

Weymouth to Falmouth in 30 hours - lessons learnt!

Rosie and Matt joined us for the evening in Weymouth.  Fly made herself comfortable on the skipper's berth!

We had a lovely meal with family at the Ship Inn and a damp night alongside the Town Quay in Weymouth.  Helen was now settled on board with a Scopolamine patch.  Water tanks had been replenished the previous afternoon, as we were second out in a raft of five and the boat inside ours wanted to leave at 7 am, after all as all, apart from us were heading back to the Solent!

We duly woke, dressed and departed from our berth.  Half asleep, our bowsprit bumped the stern of the boat ahead, fortunately with no damage.  We tied up on the long length of, still empty, pontoon, to wait for the "impaled" boat's crew to wake up but also so that our own departure coincided with being at Portland Bill when the tide should push us out into the Channel into the early ebb, rather than sucking us back into Lyme Bay, as usually happens to us.
We left the harbour and raised sail off the olympic viewing area, away form the north entrance to Portland.  Despite this a mine sweeper decided to enter the same area,  do some circles before departing again!



Breakfasting underway we were soon being swept south past the Bill and on out into the channel.  With all sails set we made good progress and were as far south as Start Point by mid afternoon, before the tide turned and swept us north and east so we would not make Brixham let alone Dartmouth, any time soon.

By the time we were off either, it was the small hours and not light enough to find somewhere to tie up in Dartmouth but by 02:00 the tide was sweeping us easily towards Start Point and the sea was relatively flat, as we closed the coast.  We retained our one reef in the mainsail and swept east of the Shambles bank, aiming to pass about 3 miles south to avoid the race.  As dawn broke, the rain started and through the low cloud we passed Start Point and the entrance to Salcombe, in increasingly steep and unpleasant seas.

The wind had increased, predictably, as soon as we rounded Start Point but backed to the SSW, making it likely that we could bear away for Plymouth, once past Bolt Tail.  However it would have been unwise to enter Salcombe, over the Bar, at low water and an onshore wind.

The wind was now 35 knots at times, even allowing 8 knots for the height of the anemometer, that is in the region of F6-7.  While making progress, it was very uncomfortable in the confused seas, which didn't settle as the favourable tide decreased.  The skipper decided to drop the mainsail, rather than a second reef and carry on under foresails and engine ,as required, against the foul tide, which should at least smooth the seas and lessen, once we were clear of the point and before it reached it's peak.

We successfully hove to on port tack, on the second attempt and things calmed down.  Unfortunately, as we discovered later, the temporary and experimental 1:3 whip on the starboard topping lift had decided to part, so there was nothing controlling the gaff which swung wildly as the boat rolled in the swell. While the loose topping lift and lazy jacks got in everyone's way! Without the mainsail, it was difficult to keep on the wind so the engine was started - and died!

After what seemed like ages and to the disbelief of the crew, the skipper managed to secure the gaff and furl and tie the mainsail.  Further attempts to start the engine failed, so we close reached along the cliffs, towards Bolt Tail, as planned.

With a strong sense of de-ja-vue, I changed tanks and after 5 or 6 attempts, the engine kept going and stopped spluttering.  A year ago in the middle of a busy Salcombe Harbour, just 3 miles away, exactly the same had happened, after tossing around off Bolt Head getting the sails in.  On that occasion we were towed to a mooring and managed to bleed the filter using the opposite tank.  Clearly once the 65 L tank is only a third full, tossing around allows air into the system and that is that.  Fortunately, we have two 65 L tanks, at least one is kept fully topped off, so this time the full tank bled it'self after a few tries, despite the boisterous conditions.

Thoroughly wet and miserable and realising we would not make Jolly Jack's for breakfast "Susan J" soldiered on still making 5 knots under foresails.  We made two tacks, to avoid the little Mew Stone and entered the Sound via the eastern entrance, in fairly misty conditions.  Once inside the breakwater we were able to motor to windward to bring the jib in as the furling line had got tangled when let out too quickly, in the "maelstrom", a not uncommon problem.

We were all very grateful to get ashore at the Mayflower marina at 1500, 30 hours after leaving Weymouth. For a shower and meal.

The next day was spent on drying out, laundry and repairing the recalcitrant topping lift (essentially, retying the knot!  Having retrieved all from up the mast!

While Helen and Julie had a very necessary walk around Mt. Edgcombe, again, before a richly deserved slap up dinner at Jolly Jack's!


Ideally, we shoudl have moved to Cawsands, as the wind abated in the afternoon, to ensure an early start to catch the best of the west going tide and last of the W wind.  Instead Friday saw us, after filling the fuel tanks,  beating into the last of the strong westerly out of the Sound.  The wind then went stubournely SW, right on the nose.


Motor sailing, tacking, we declined Roger's suggestion of fine dining in Portscatho, in favour of a sheltered anchoring in Falmouth Haven, yet again in the dark and mist, before droppin Helen off at the empty (of fuel as well!) fuel pontoon to catch the bus back to Helford, while we had a leisurely motor back to our mooring on the Saturday morning.

Lessons learnt, (possibly!) while all passage plans should have alternative plans B &C, it is perhaps, undesirable to attempt to use the whole alphabet!  However, crossing Lyme Bay east to west seems to always be a difficult pasage to plan and execute for ourselves.   Knowing that we could have cooked a hot meal , rather than soup, in the  evening, once we were in the lee of Devon.  Although both skippers were aware of the possibility but not certainty, of an overnight passage, they could have easily got more rest during the day in preparation.

We could and perhaps should, have entered Brixham in the dark, although it meant further back tracking, we had done it before but out of season.  At a pinch we could have anchored outside, although it would have been miserable.  That would not have been a viable option outside Dartmouth at 3 am.  Fatigue was certainly a factor by the following mid morning.  Having decided that we were continuing to Plymouth, we could have easily put  a second reef in, while still in the lee of Slapton Sands, anticipating that the full force of the wind against tide, would be come apparent once west of Prawle Point.
Any purchase, however temporary, should use a single length of rope, not two odds and ends tied together, even with double sheet bends! Our continuing development of a more effective topping lift / lazy jack system should consider bringing the topping lifts inboard along the boom so the gaff is always between them.  This would greatly assist routine raising and lowering of the mainsail, as well as under these circumstances, although would make no difference to reefing while underway.
Clearly we should assume that our range under power is only half of what the fuel we are carrying should provide.

Oh! and make sure the skipper has a cup of tea before leaving a raft!






Once again " Susan J" has taken good care of us, demonstrating, yet again, that the weakest factor is the "wetware"  - i.e. the skipper and crew!  Despite this all are ready to returna baoard for, hopefully, less epic passages in August!

Wednesday, 17 July 2019

To Lyme Regis and Lulworth Cove

We enjoyed a pleasant sail and motor north and eastwards past the Exe estuary and sections of the east devon coastal path.  The distinctive Golden Cap and Beacon Hill grew closer and as the late evening sun came out, we headed around the Cobb to anchor off Lyme Regis.

A rather "rolly" night but a lovely view of the moon!
By the morning a space at the outer end of the pontoon became vacant and we tied up and went ashore to find many of the family ready for a swim and a Sunday lunch ashore!

The following morning we continued to sail past the familiar land based landmarks of Dorset.
Eventually having to motor to the north end of Portland Bill to catch the tide through the inshore passage.
From their we had hoped to anchor in Warbarrow Bay as we had on our first delivery cruise from Poole, two years ago. However, the Army were firing through the night, so onward passage to Swanage or Poole would entail a large detour to and then make, the inside passage around Anvil Point and St Albans Head.  Instead, a peaceful sail took us off Lulworth Cove, which we entered easily and found a space to anchor amongst several other yachts taking advantage of the settled weather.  The dinghy was still inflated, so we managed to get ashore in time for a pint and fish and chips, at the Lulworth Cove Inn before it closed.  then we returned aboard for a peaceful night in magical surroundings.
The following day we decided to stay put and climbed over to Durdle Door with the crowds and Julie swam through the arch.


The afternoon was spent swimming and, in David's case, cleaning the boot top and the large amount of growth on the folding propeller.  In the evening we explored the eastern headland and realised that the range would be an obstacle, requiring careful timing for completing the SW coastal path.

The weather was changing, with a return to southwesterlies forecasted over the next few days, so we returned to Weymouth on the Tuesday morning and met Rosie, Mattt and their dog
Fly as well as Sarah and Helen.  Helen would be joining us for our return to the Helford by the weekend.

Sunday, 14 July 2019

Onwards to Salcombe, Teignmouth and Lyme Bay

A final, leisurely morning at QAB, following the Plymouth Festival of Sail, was spent sorting ship, re victualling and taking on water.


We took the tide and wind eastwards to Salcombe, crossing the bar on the early flood in benign conditions.  There were no free moorings in the "Bag" so we motored further up and anchored peacefully, on the second attempt under "Stone Point" for a further rest.
This part of the cruise had started with several options, including the Scillies but the most likely forecast, suggested relatively light conditions suitable for Lyme Bay from the next day.  To take full advantage we forewent a walk to the Sharpitor museum, for another time and rounded Start Point in a freshening north westerly.


By late afternoon, in a freshening northwesterly, we realised that we would not arrive at Teignmouth until 19:00 ish, by which time the tide would be less than half.  A telephone call to the Harbour Master, reassured us that, despite the high pressure and the Shell Pilot's warning not to enter before half tide, there would be at least 1.6 m in the channel at low tide!
After a cracking beat past Torbay, we took all sail off outside and entered against the fast flowing ebb, in the remarkably narrow channel and found  a suitable boat to raft to, on one of the two visitor's pontoons in the surprisingly sheltered and picturesque port.
In the morning we inflated the dinghy and motored ashore.  We had a swim in the Lido, a coffee in the town and bought provisions.  Having returned aboard, Julie returned to the Lido to collect David's telephone and also returned the Warren Bakery's mouldy rolls, that we had bought for lunch before finding many local bakeries in the town. 


We still departed fairly near the top of the flood and back into Lyme Bay in the early afternoon.

Friday, 12 July 2019

Plymouth Festival of Sail and the Southwest Gaffers annual race

After a pleasant sail up form Helford Passage and overnight stay at Cawsands.


We joined the other 19 gaffers, varying form 14 to 29 foot over deck. As we were almost last, we had to perform a multipoint turn in front of the assembled gaffers.  By the end of the event we had accomplished this on three occasions, with "no loss of paint"!


 We had a splendid view of "Tom Tit" from our cockpit, an engineless Itchen Ferry, Mike and Sue have now based her at Weir Quay, she was built in 1894 and the oldest attendee.

"Mary Ritchie" and her skipper Don

 The afternoon was spent catching up with other crews some new to the SW OGA.  A very pleasant meal at the Chandler's restaurant was eaten 'al fresco'.  New T shirts and sweat shirts were acquired and details of the race given out.

There had been speculation that there would be too little wind but, in the end, the sea breezes filled in and there was perfect weather and wind for the course inside the breakwater.   The planned start of 12:00 had had to be delayed to allow a coaster to enter the Cattewater and dock.   The now familiar running start, with a shorter, 15 minute, window to cross the line, proved satisfactory for most, in as much as every one started!  Unfortunately the course was shortened to one of, the intended, three laps for a variety of unclear reasons!


"Susan J"'s crew smiling after the start!
 .                                                                                                       ..and here's why!

 "Mary Ritchie"- another Helford boat - and the one to beat!
 "Roxanne" the other Heard 28in our class and based in Plymouth.
 Susan J"'s owners relaxing as the crew takes photos!
 Paul J, our Area President's "Minx" a replica Morecambe Bay prawner, based in Brixham and Chris's "Ester" - an Oysterman 22 another Plymouth boat.
 "Periwinkle" John G's Tamarisk 23, also based at Weir Quay

"Susan J" managed to come third in class, behind "Mary Ritchie", again and retains the Tyrone Trophy for another year!

The second day was another scorcher with lighter wind.  Most of the fleet sailed to Saltash, undertaking an enjoyable quiz, set by Paul and Penny, en route. Having enjoyed a pasty and pint at the hospitable Saltash SC our departure and that of "Roxanne" was delayed by Julie exploring the hinterland for ice cream, with other crew!


Here is Tim P sailing "May Blossom" - she is almost 100 years old - single handed back to Helford, to avoid the forecast south westerly but missing the pasties!

"Susan J" taking a photo call form Lil, who sadly left us to return to London.

Back at QAB for the final ihe informal pontoon party, aboard "Perrywinkle", we then had a brisk walk to the Barbican and a very good if rather 'hot' meal at the B Bar.  "Susan J"'s crew, retired fairly early, exhausted, after what had been a very enjoyable event and a prelude to another few days exploring Lyme Bay.

Sunday, 7 July 2019

To Plymouth, (for PFof S) including video

After few days ashore "Susan J" was booked to attend the SW OGA Plymouth Festival of Sail.

 Lil came down by train to Somerset and we drove on  down in time to catch the water taxi to her mooring.

Aftar a"planning meal" a reasonably early start on the Sunday, had us sailing and motor sailing towards Plymouth.


 Anchoring at Cawsands in good time for a run ashore and a pint, before eating aboard.


A fine morning was rewarded with a swim for all before sailing over to Queen Anne's Battery (QAB)  .


Finally a video made by our crew!