Treguier

Probably our last day in France was spent ashore in Treguier.

This is a relatively small medieval town, particularly quiet as it was Asscencion Day.

An enjoyable lunch. Before a quiet afternoon catching up with the blog! Julie attended a concert by the Brittany Male Voice Choir, in St Ive's Cathedral, while the crew had a last preprandial cider.

A splendid restaurant meal ashore and all prepared for the ebb at 6 am and, hopefully a straight forward crossing to Plymouth on Friday.

Bashing to Treguier!

After a damp start and poor forecast we eventually decided to leave for the delights of Treguier, rather later than ideal for the tides.

Once out of the River Trieux, the rain restarted with visibility down to barely two miles. By this time plans a and b were abandoned, with d, to press offshore towards England, being seriously considered.

In the end we motor sailed with the double reefed main, relying rather too heavily on the plotter, around the seaward side of the rocks.

Visibility came and went but eventually we arrived at the marina and berthed successfully, amongst the many massive yachts.

Back to Lezardrieux and a Heard 35!

After the market in Paimpol, we were able to re-enter the lock and motored out into the teeth of force 5 but little swell because of the reefs.

We cruised back up the River Trieur and went alongside the hammerhead at L'ezardrieux.

The other boat, sharing the pontoon was "Myvonne", who we had spied but not identified, while mooring in the river two days ago. "Myvonne" is one of nine Heard 35 pilot cutters, built by Martin Heard at Mylor Bridge in 2000.  Her owners Andy and Anne keep her at Roscoff, although she still proudly flies the flag of St. Pirran. They used to run the Plymouth Festival of Sail in it's heyday. Also on board was Nina an honary SW gaffer ("Tiger" is a classic Folkboat) who helps organise our cruise to Saltash SC during our more modest SW Gaffer's event in July.

Paimpol

Julie becoming expert at pilotage!

Our last downwind leg, under foresails between the Île de Brehat and across the drying Baie de Paimpol.

Arrived at half tide and tied up to the vertical ropes in the lock and waited half an hour before "Susan J" was lifted to the floating basin.

After much manoeuvring to take on diesel we were placed alongside a long and empty visitors pontoon in the inner basin. Beneath a vast temporary fair.  Fortunately, the latter was resting before the weekend, so it was fairly peaceful.

With all facilités, including boulangerie and bars in sight, this was a very convenient location.  We spent the afternoon doing laundry and stocking up.

We then visited the small Museum du Mer and learnt about the very tough 70 years until 1935, when large locally built schooners were crewed and supplied by the town in February and sailed to Islande (Iceland) to line fish for cod, in those days weighing an enormous 30 - 60 kg. Some, but not all, of the boats returned in September with their catch salted in the holds.  Over the seventy years, or so some 100 boats and 2000 fishermen were lost.  Although some of the shipwrecked fishermen got ashore and intermingled with the lonely Icelanders, whose own men folk were were themselves at sea during the fishing season.

In the evening Rosie and Matt arrived via plane to Nantes and train to join "Susan J" for the next stage!

The following morning was spent at the market, which seemed to sprawl through out the medieval town. Much local produce and reasonable quality of goods. Leading to a leisurely start to their cruise.

R Trieux

Leaving Ploumana'ch, as on arrival, it is not possible to raise the mainsail until outside the relative shelter of the reefs. Once raised we quickly had to reef, before running, on alternating gybes, towards the entrance of the River Trieux. Although out of the swell behind the reefs, the strong NW wind, encouraged us to sail well into the lower reaches, where we saw a solitary but enormous dolphin, before picking up a vacant mooring about half way towards Lezardrieux.

A typical view of the shore in N. Bretagne, showing multiple rocks and reefs! 

We had a peaceful evening before our next crew pick up. 

A day ashore

In increasingly pleasant weather we embarked on a well trodden coastal walk around the rocky coast to an almost tropical sandy bay and resort.

Stopping for galettes for lunch.

Returning through a garden of sculpted granite.

These photos do scant justice to the stunning landscape but show the challenging pilotage required!

In Ploumana'ch, once ashore it was necessary to wait for the tide to return to float the dinghy or risk getting very muddy! So we were forced to sample the delights of the local bar and walk back to pretty St. ?? For an evening meal! In all we walked over 11 miles so earnt it. 

Pink granite!

After breakfast, by bicycle in Roscoff, we returned via the supermarché fully, laden!

We took the flood across the rock strewn Baie du Morlaix to Ploumana'ch.

The entrance, while stemming the stream to take off sail.

Surrounded by spectacular lumps of pink granite.

Unlike the Canal de Batz, the lateral perches corresponded with Reeds and other pilot books!

In a floating pool after another hairy entry over drying rocks. With these extraordinary fore and aft moorings with dumbells to lie against.

Tomorrow we will go ashore and explore the cote rose on foot.

Back in the Channel!

Leaving L'Aber Benoît, we came across our first dolphins since the Channel crossing. We have noticed much less wildlife, a few solitary gannets and occasional flock of shearwaters, although many cormorants.   We are now back in the English Channel and it is noticibly colder in the NNW wind but the weather remains fine and clear.

Our plan was to arrive at the Canal de Batz 3 hours before HW, which meant 6 hours motor sailing against up to 3.5 knots of tide. Surprisingly, this used little over 5 litres of fuel.  The plan worked and we watched many yachts fly by going westwards!  The photos show us cautiously leaving the canal.

Arriving at Bloscon marina, Julie berthed Susan J perfectly,despite the absence of any promised, mandatory, direction from the harbour master or lights.  The visitor berths were rather short, so we managed to ship the bowsprit in 12 minutes - a record!

Finally, as some keen observers have already noticed, the AIS finally transmits.  The dedicated GPS aerial cable had to be cut and the fancy connectors needed soldering after all! A humble chocolate block connection, fitted under way, was the last resort but clearly effective!

Le Channel du Four

Virtually no wind other than our own making.  Lovely warm summer day, blue skies and Julie in shorts!

The southern entrance to Channel du Four

Le Four light at the northern end.

"Susan J" motored for more than seven hours past the spectacular western end of Brittany. As the wind picked up we sailed back into L'Aber Benoît for a peaceful night on a mooring.

Baie de L'Auberlach

Anchored here in the Rade de Brest after a gentle sail to the entrance to the Aulne, serenaded by flocks of helicopters and schools of milatary Ribs.  While trying to tack back into this bay, we were hasselled by an unmarked, possibly military, motor launch.  She hooted at us, one long blast, circled us, even though we had tacked out of her way. The second time we hove to and shrugged our shoulders, nil on Ch16. We carried on, avoiding further antagonism by not taking a photo! Several, presumably local yachts were left alone!

Regrettably, Le Tapecul bar, at L'Aberlauch, was closed on Tuesdays, so we contented ourselves with a walk through the lovely woods. 

We met an American couple, Daryl and Jean, and their young dog, off "Skagerat" a largish bermudan sloop.  Live aboards, they were making their way to Ardrossan for the winter, via the Channel Islands, to introduce their passported dog to the UK by ferry!

Sunset over Rade de Brest 

I guess "Skagerat" was "setting off into the sunrise! 

Crew leaves and a day in Brest

A pleasant evening ashore taking cable cars to and fro across the docks and enjoying a remarkably pleasant French meal. 

Fiona left "Susan J" in Brest, catching an early Ryanair to Southend for a fiver. She had been with us for eleven days, crossing the English Channel under sail and exploring most of the Pointe de Bretagne.  A very useful crew and good company.

Here she is contemplating the comfort of her Bristol flat! 

A short walk found a boulangerie but Julie had to walk to the city to find a magasin for milk and stores. An efficient laundry, including free ice and excellent ablutions were all put to good use!

Julie had the rest of the day ashore and visited the excellent maritime museum in the Château. 

While David replaced the elderly VHF wireless set and separate DSC units with one modern unit, so the DSC will now work, using our new aerial!  It turns out there is as much wireless traffic, albeit incompressible, as in any UK port we just couldn't hear it!

As some keen observers will have noticed the AIS briefly works again.  The dedicated GPS aerial cable had to be cut and the connectors need soldering after all! Chocolate block connection may be the last resort and more effective! 

Second tide lucky!

Strategically anchored behind Pointe de Chèvre, we left in good time to take the remaining ebb around the point and into the early north flowing tide, by tacking inshore and dodging various rocks and reefs, using the plotter.

As the tidal stream increased this photo shows us having passed between two sections of Pointe de Pen-Hir.

We then rounded inside Pointe du Toulonget and close reached at 8.5 knots through the water and at one point 10 knots over the ground, as we were whisked through the Goulat de Brest.

Along with "La Recouvrance", for whom we decided to spill wind and slow down, affording Julie a photo opportunity!

The Châteaux Marina's long visitors pontoon was taken by a fleet of racing yachts so we were led deep into the pontoons where we managed to berth with no loss of paint.